Wednesday
Aug182010
Alofu, at last
August 18, 2010 * * * * * Posted by: Eliza 
We'd been in the forest since first light when it was cool. Now the sun was high and we still hadn't seen sight nor sound of the M group, the semi-habituated chimpanzees that live in the Mahale Mountains, Western Tanzania.
The trackers were up front and they kept telling us "njoo njoo (come), they're close, we're almost there". We weren't so sure; the forest was too quiet and chimps are noisy hooligans at the best of times, they don't move without telling the world about it. J was getting a tad grumpy, it was hot and steamy and the forest was starting to close around us. I felt uneasy and slightly claustrophobic.
We kept climbing.
Suddenly a loud scream sent a shock wave through the forest and a tracker came running, he'd found them. I think they've cornered a colobus monkey he said, haraka, quickly quickly.
Chimpanzees will often stalk - and kill - other primates, it can be a bit grim and I've only seen it once on a video. They are predatory and very cunning, they move cleverly in a pack and rarely does the prey escape. In this case the scream was territorial, they had found a tree bearing their favourite fruit and there was no room for other monkey observers; around us all other primates surely let out a sigh of relief.
In a clearing we found Alofu and two females, at first he was hard to spot - only tantalizing glimpses of his hands and feet. But then, as we settled down on the path, avoiding the nasty siafu ants, he gracefully somersaulted off his branch but then messed up his timing and landed with a thud. He proceeded to yawn, scratch his nether regions (won't elaborate, chimps are not known for their delicacy in most things) and settled down to eat.
Reader Comments (9)
the right shot appeals to me most... lovely animals they are, especially when kept in their own habitat
I had to google colobus, I've never seen one before. lovely story and great shots.
I had no idea that chimpanzees were predators. Such terrific images..and a wonderful story that speaks to your magical adventurous life!!!
Am learning so much thru you...
You have such wonderful adventures, Eliza! I can't even imagine traipsing through the forest in search of an elusive chimpanzee...and then finding it! Thank you for again transporting me across the miles... :)
When I see your posts, I get excited. That I "know" you is such a treat. Thank you ...
Wow. Fabulous. When I read your posts I feel like I am in a Hemingway novel. I love that shot on the right, the look on his face.
After reading your description of "won't elaborate," I laughingly thought, "And we're descended from them?!?!" :) It's so true...the experiences you have in your life there, Eliza. It's like your life is one big safari! I'm sure this isn't always true, but it's in a part of the world most of us will only dream about and never see with our own eyes. Thanks for giving it to us on a silver platter post after post. I agree with the others who can hardly wait to see and read what you will show us next.
I hear chimps are one of the most dangerous animals in the jungle. It gives me chills to read your post but so admiring of your courage!
When I first heard that chimpanzees were predators it was hard to take in. It still is. Wonderful pictures Eliza and you are so brave.